HOW SHOULD WE DEFINE FAST FASHION?
Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2017 campaign photographed by Harley Weir
Robin Givhan, Pulitzer Prize-winning fashion critic and journalist for the Washington Post, has brought the issue and complexity of fast fashion to the attention of the most disinterested audience in her 2019 article “The Troubling Ethics of Fashion in the Age of Climate Change.” Yet, her decision to write the article for the Washington Post’s readership is one of genius because whether you care about fashion or not, its effect on the planet affects us all, even if you may have not considered it.
Many consumers of fast fashion know very little about the industry and practice, which is by design. Corporations that use a fast-fashion model to produce clothing do so in such a way that creates an almost impenetrable barrier between the company and the consumer. Even companies are sometimes unaware of the specifics of their supply chain. But why is it important to know this information, especially as companies entice their customers to buy more and more through jaw-dropping deals, or rather steals? Why is it important to know about “the troubling ethics of fashion, [especially] in the age of climate change?”
”No Man's Land" by Christian Boltanski photographed by James Ewing
To discuss the reliability and viability of alternatives to fast fashion, we need to define what constitutes fast fashion and overconsumption.
The term fast fashion is a bit of a misnomer. Rather than a physical product or clothing item, fast fashion, sometimes referred to as throwaway fashion, is both a business model and a consumer perspective. On the business end, fast fashion is the process of overproducing and distributing clothes at a breakneck speed which often exceeds consumer demand. Brardwaj and Fairhurst (2010) argue that “ recent years have seen fashion retailers compete with others by ensuring speed to market with their ability to provide rapidly the fashion trends revealed by fashion shows and runways.” Innovation and a desire to exceed profit margins are at the root of fast fashion’s grip on the corporate world. But, why do consumers like it so much?
The apparel produced is not only inexpensive but also extremely popular as it encapsulates two distinct sides of fashion. Fast fashion products could be the basics that everyone wears at some point like hoodies, sweat pants, t-shirts, or jeans. Or they could emulate more luxurious or popular items at a given time. These clothes usually fit within the current trend cycle, as they mimic high or luxury fashion designs, but at much lower quality. Consumers want to look good, without spending a whole month's salary on a single article of clothing, and thus they turn to fast fashion.
”No Man's Land" by Christian Boltanski photographed by James Ewing
Yet, consumers have now begun to rely too much on fast fashion. Throwaway fashion and consumers’ overconsumption of these products accelerate the trend cycle, leading to waste, once a particular item is not on trend anymore. Compared to other sectors of the fashion industry, such as luxury or high fashion, fast fashion is so lucrative precisely because of its accessibility and affordability. According to a study conducted by Common Objective in 2018 “it is estimated that around the world, about 107 billion units of apparel and 14.5 billion pairs of shoes were purchased in 2016” (1). Consumers are willing t0 purchase copious amounts of clothing, especially if it is dirt cheap.
But one has to ask themselves why there are such price disparities between fast fashion and the luxury fashion market. What causes these stark price differences for something like a pair of blue jeans at the fast-fashion Swedish clothing giant, H&M, costing around $20 compared to the $2,000 Givenchy, a luxury French fashion heritage house, charges?
Garment Workers photographed by Ahmed Salahuddin
Many companies who produce fast fashion must cut corners to meet and satisfy consumer demand, save money, and ultimately sell their garments at such a low price point. They will usually outsource to garment factories located in communities in the global south to bypass the costs associated with wage labor and environmental protection laws and regulations. These communities suffer the most as a result of this capitalist greed. A Good on You article based on a 2019 Oxfam report found that “0% of Bangladeshi garment workers and 1% of Vietnamese garment workers earned a living wage [which] prevents workers from saving money to have a safety net while looking for alternative employment” (McCosker 2). Manufacturing plants trap laborers in a vicious, seemingly never-ending cycle of dangerous, grueling work with minimal pay, forcing people to continue to work if they hope to provide for themselves and/or their families. Also, these workers, especially women, and the communities they live in experience the direct effects of the overabundance of environmental stressors and pollutants caused by fast fashion practices.
Fashion generates an enormous amount of waste, both during its production and after its consumption when items do not sell or a consumer decides to get rid of a product. This waste is not properly disposed of, often ending up back in the communities it was produced in. The toxic chemicals in the clothes “not only hurt the environment but pollute essential drinking water sources” (Regan 1). So, what can be done to remedy this dire situation?
Looks from Fall/Winter 2017 by Kenya Hunt from Elle.com
Acting on this issue is less about actual deeds and more about shifting the way you think about the consumption of clothing. Consumers must begin to think about clothing as a necessity, rather than a frivolous luxury. While it may feel nice to have the privilege to purchase clothing at a whim, this lack of regard can quickly lead to overconsumption, which stresses the environment and gives companies the freedom to remain unchanged. There is not a specific amount you should not consume to try to alleviate the damages of fast fashion. But rather, you must be more cognizant of your purchasing habits and really consider if a new item of clothing is absolutely necessary. If it is, by all means, buy it. But if it is not, try to wait until that item becomes a necessity or look for alternatives in your wardrobe that could serve in its place.
